
Ask ten neighbours when to trim hedges and you will get ten answers, most of them "when it looks messy". That is the reason so many Melbourne hedges are cut at the wrong time: in a heatwave because the top went shaggy, in autumn because the leaves fell, in winter because the weekend was free. The hedge does not care about the weekend. It cares about its own growth cycle and the weather on the day, and this guide lays both out month by month so the cut lands when the plant can use it.
Api Mariner is a qualified arborist who has trimmed hedges across Melbourne's west, the inner suburbs and Geelong for more than 16 years. The calendar below is the one his regular customers run on.
When to trim hedges: the Melbourne hedge calendar
The Bureau of Meteorology's long-run averages for Melbourne Airport set the rhythm. Mean maximums run at 26.7 degrees in January and February and fall to 13.2 degrees in July, with a mean minimum of 5.5 degrees in the coldest month; rainfall peaks in spring, 62.4 mm in November and 55.7 mm in October, and bottoms out at 35.0 mm in July [1]. Hedges flush hardest through that wet spring and early summer, slow in the dry heat, and stop in winter. Every entry in the calendar follows from that.

When to trim hedges in Melbourne, month by month
- JulyNothing to cut. Walk the hedges, look up for the service line, note what has grown out of shape, and book the late-winter visit.
- AugustThe hard prune on lilly pilly, once the frost risk has passed and before spring growth starts. Rejuvenation cuts on any lilly pilly or viburnum that has gone bare at the base.
- SeptemberGrowth begins. Photinia and viburnum are cut as soon as they finish flowering. First light trim on box and pittosporum as new shoots harden.
- OctoberWettest weeks of the year. First proper trim on most formal hedges as the flush comes on. Conifers trimmed within the green on a mild, still day.
- NovemberThe main growing month. Second light trim on fast growers. Check the batter: is the base still wider than the top?
- DecemberLight trims only, early in the morning before the heat. Water deeply after cutting if the soil is dry.
- JanuaryRest the trimmer on hot days. Tidy stray shoots on a mild morning. Mulch the root zone.
- FebruaryA tidy trim to hold shape, nothing hard while the soil is dry and the plant is stressed.
- MarchShaping trim as temperatures ease. Begin tip pruning native hedges after their flowers finish.
- AprilLast trim before winter on formal hedges. Finish tip pruning grevillea and westringia by the end of the month.
- MayGrowth slows. Clear clippings from the base of every hedge so the lower growth keeps its light through winter.
- JuneRest. Plan any staged reductions for the year ahead and get the quote in before the spring rush.
The two rules that sit behind every line: hard cuts happen when the plant is about to grow, so it can cover them; light trims happen while it is growing, so each cut makes it denser. Gardening Australia's Angus Stewart puts the lilly pilly rule simply: prune in late winter, before new growth comes on in spring, and in cooler climates wait until all danger of frost has passed [2].
When to trim each hedge
The calendar above is the average. The species decides where within it a particular hedge falls.
Lilly pilly
Hard pruned in late winter; it takes a cut as hard as you like, even down to ground level, and a good hard prune also clears scale insect and sooty mould without chemicals [2]. Through the growing season it is trimmed little and often, which Gardening Australia's Jane Edmanson recommends so the plants bush up, with the tops cut level early rather than waiting for full height [5]. Three to four trims a year is typical on good soil.
Photinia and viburnum
Both flower in spring and both are cut straight afterwards. Sophie Thomson describes laurustinus (Viburnum tinus) flowering for three to four months over late winter and spring, and advises deadheading immediately after flowering every year from planting, which keeps the hedge compact all the way to the ground; photinia, she adds, can be pruned after flowering as well [3]. Two or three trims a year keep either one sharp, and the red flush on a freshly trimmed photinia is the reward.
Pittosporum, murraya and box
The fine-leafed formal hedges want frequency, not force. A light trim three or four times through spring and summer holds a crisp face; a single heavy cut after years of neglect is how these hedges end up thin. Hard cuts, where they are needed, belong in late winter to early spring.
Conifers
Leighton Green cypress and its relatives are trimmed within the green only, in any mild, still month, one or two times a year. They do not reshoot from old brown wood, so there is no season in which a cut past the green is safe. A conifer hedge that has grown too tall is reduced in stages over more than one year.
Native hedges
Grevillea, westringia, correa and small callistemons are tip pruned in autumn, up to the end of April, taking the top couple of centimetres from each branch so that at least two new shoots grow behind every cut [4]. Harder tip pruning, removing the top 30 to 40 cm of a top-heavy plant, takes weight off and prevents breakage, and a straggly native can be hard pruned by half or to the ground to rejuvenate it [4]. The one rule: if there is a flower bud, wait [4].
| Hedge | Firm cut | Light trims | Visits a year |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lilly pilly | Late winter, after frost [2] | Spring to autumn, little and often [5] | 3 to 4 |
| Viburnum tinus | Straight after flowering [3] | Summer tidy | 2 to 3 |
| Photinia | After flowering [3] | Spring and summer | 2 to 3 |
| Pittosporum, murraya, box | Late winter to early spring | Spring to autumn | 3 to 4 |
| Conifers | Within the green, any mild month | Once more in the season | 1 to 2 |
| Grevillea, westringia, correa | Autumn, to end of April [4] | After flowering | 1 to 2 |

Had Api come and trim back some out of control trees on our new property to a maintainable level, looks fantastic and he and his team were prompt, tidy and great to deal with. Highly recommend! Definitely have him back soon
How often a hedge needs cutting, and why little and often wins
The cadence column above is the heart of a seasonal hedge schedule. Two to four visits a year sounds like a lot until you see what each one involves: soft tips coming off, a quick rake, and a hedge that is always close to its shape. The alternative is a rescue cut every few years that goes into woody growth, produces bulk waste and, on conifers, cannot be done in one go at all.
The horticulture behind it is Gardening Australia's little-and-often rule [5]: every light cut into new growth makes the hedge branch just behind the cut, so the face gets denser with each trim. Frequency is the tool. The trimmer is just how you apply it.
What you should know about the weather on the day
The calendar picks the month; the forecast picks the day. Energy Safe Victoria's advice to avoid pruning in high winds is written for powerline safety [7], and it is good horticulture as well: wind throws clippings, tears cuts and makes any platform unsafe. Heatwave days scorch fresh cuts. A mild, still morning is a hedge morning, whatever the month.
What to do after each cut
A trim is not finished when the trimmer stops. Four small jobs decide how well the hedge recovers.
After every hedge trim
- Rake the clippings off the top: left on, they brown off in days and shade the surface
- Blow or rake the base clear so the lower growth keeps its light
- Water deeply if the soil is dry, especially after a summer trim
- Mulch the root zone, kept clear of the stems
- Hold fertiliser on a plant that has just had a hard cut until it is shooting again
- Check the batter from a distance: the base should still be a touch wider than the top
- Look up: is any growth within reach of the service line?
That last item is a maintenance job in its own right. For a hedge on your property, you are responsible for keeping it clear of the service line that runs to your house, and Energy Safe Victoria says to clear growth before it comes within one metre of the insulated line in any direction [6]. The autumn walk-round and the winter check are when that gets caught.
Want your hedges on the right calendar without thinking about it? Api sets up a seasonal schedule on a free visit, 7 days a week.
The signs a hedge needs a professional
Most of the calendar is a good weekend job on a hedge you can reach from the ground. Five signs move it out of that category.
Keep doing it yourself, or call Api
A fair weekend job
- You can reach the whole top comfortably from the ground
- You know the species and its season
- The base is still wider than the top
- The growth is soft tips, not woody stems
- No powerline or service line anywhere near it
Time for an arborist
- It is taller than you can reach without a ladder
- It is a conifer that has grown out of the green
- It has run away for several seasons and needs a staged reduction
- The base has gone bare and the batter needs rebuilding
- The service line or a street powerline runs through or near it
Height is the one people push through, and it is the one that hurts. Safe Work Australia's guidance for trimming and pruning amenity trees is that tree trimming or removal work should not be done from ladders [8]; a two-handed trimmer, a springy hedge and a ladder is not a stable combination at any age. Api works tall hedges from platforms with an exclusion zone underneath [8], and that is a large part of why a professional cut looks different a year later: the top is level because it was cut from a stable place with a string line, and the face is battered because both sides were cut from the bottom up.
Knowing how hard to cut a hedge is the other professional judgement. Lilly pilly and viburnum come back from a hard cut in their season; conifers never do; the fine-leafed hedges want stages. Api will tell you on a free visit which category yours is in, and quote the staged reduction honestly if that is what it needs.
Big Thanks to Api and his team, for the pruning and cutting of Trees/Bushes on my property. As well as giving me a hedge I never knew existed or could have envisioned. Cheers, and these guys have my endorsement.
Removing a hedge instead of maintaining it
Sometimes the right entry in the calendar is "take it out". A conifer screen with brown holes on every face, a hedge planted under a service line, a privacy hedge that has become a wall of dead wood: these are replaced, not rescued. Two things to check first. If the hedge is actually a row of tall trees, the state canopy-tree rule can apply: since September 2025 a tree in a Victorian residential zone more than 5 metres tall, with a trunk over 0.5 metres around at 1.4 metres and a canopy of at least 4 metres, needs a planning permit for removal near the street or rear boundary [10]. And any tradesperson you use should show a certificate of currency for public liability insurance and quote in writing, per Consumer Affairs Victoria's checklist for home jobs [9]. Api checks the council position on your title as part of the quote and tells you before anything is cut.
Getting the calendar right in your own garden
Garden hedge trimming is one of the few jobs where doing less, more often, is the expert approach. Write the firm cut for each hedge into the month it belongs, trim lightly through spring and summer on mild days, rake the base every time, and look up for the line in autumn. Do that, and a hedge that used to need rescuing every third year starts looking after itself.
For the hedges that are too tall, too woody, too close to a line or too far gone, our hedge trimming service quotes on site for free and puts the plan, the timing and the price in writing. Api answers the phone 7 days from 6am.
How you get a hedge that is cut at the right time every year, not just when it looks bad
Getting a hedge that is cut at the right time every year, not just when it looks bad does not have to be complicated. At Aps Tree Removal we look at the job with you, tell you what actually needs doing and what does not, and put a fixed price on it before anything is cut.
No pushy sales. Api comes out, walks the property with you, explains the options and what each one means for the result, the risk and the price. You decide at your own pace. People choose us because they understand the job before they book it, and the crew that quotes is the crew that turns up.
We will tell you if a council permit applies and what the process is, we will point out anything near powerlines or the neighbour's boundary that changes the method, and we will say plainly when a cheaper option is the better one. Every job is done by a qualified arborist, fully insured, and the site is left cleaner than we found it.
Get in touch today. Api quotes for free, 7 days, 6am to 5pm, across Melbourne's west, the inner city and Geelong.
How we work with you
We talk and answer your questions
Call 0422 856 090 or send the form. Api asks what is worrying you about the tree, hedge or stump, what access is like, and whether anything sits near powerlines or a fence line.
We look and give you a fixed price
Api visits, inspects the tree or hedge, checks the permit position for your council, and quotes in writing. The price covers the job, the clean-up and the green waste unless we say otherwise.
You decide what works best
Remove, reduce, prune or wait: we explain the difference and what each costs. No pressure, no expiring offers. The choice is yours.
We do the job and stay in touch
The crew arrives when we said, works to the plan, and leaves the site clean. If the tree throws a surprise on the day, we tell you before we change anything.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to trim hedges in Melbourne?
For most formal hedges, a firm cut in late winter or straight after flowering, then light trims through spring and summer. Lilly pilly is hard pruned in late winter after frost risk; photinia and viburnum after they flower; natives are tip pruned in autumn up to the end of April; conifers in any mild month, within the green.
How often should hedges be trimmed?
Two to four light trims a year for formal hedges, timed to the species. Fast growers like lilly pilly and pittosporum sit at the top of that range, conifers and native hedges at the bottom. The principle from Gardening Australia is little and often, because each cut makes the hedge denser.
Can I trim hedges in summer in Melbourne?
Light trims, yes, on mild days. Avoid heatwave days when fresh cuts scorch, and avoid high wind. Hard cuts wait for the plant's season: late winter for lilly pilly, after flowering for photinia and viburnum.
Should I trim hedges in winter?
Mostly no. Growth has stopped and a winter cut on a frost-tender hedge can burn the new growth that follows. The exception is the late-winter hard prune on lilly pilly once frosts are past. Winter is for planning, checking the service line and booking the spring visit.
What should I do after trimming a hedge?
Rake the clippings off the top and out of the base, water deeply if the soil is dry, mulch the root zone without piling it against the stems, and hold off fertiliser on a plant that has just had a hard cut until it is shooting again.
How do I know a hedge needs a professional rather than a trim?
It is taller than you can reach from the ground, it is a conifer that has grown out of the green, it sits near a service line or powerline, it has run away for several seasons and needs a staged reduction, or the base has gone bare and needs a batter rebuilt. Api will tell you which on a free visit.
Sources
- Bureau of Meteorology: Climate statistics for Australian locations: Melbourne Airport
- Gardening Australia (ABC): Pruning Lilly Pillies (Series 19, Episode 32)
- Gardening Australia (ABC): Spring Pruning (Series 29, Episode 36)
- Gardening Australia (ABC): Pruning Natives (Series 27, Episode 03)
- Gardening Australia (ABC): FAQs: hedging lilly pillies (Series 30, Episode 07)
- Energy Safe Victoria: Trees and vegetation FAQ (reviewed 16 March 2026)
- Energy Safe Victoria: Managing trees near powerlines
- Safe Work Australia: Guide to managing the risks of tree work (March 2023)
- Consumer Affairs Victoria: Home improvements costing $10,000 or less: checklist
- Planning Victoria (Department of Transport and Planning): Protecting and enhancing our tree canopy for a greener Victoria
Information about tree work, council permits and insurance changes often, and every property is different: figures here are general guidance and linked pages may change or become outdated. For a price on your own tree, hedge or stump, call Api on 0422 856 090 for a free quote.









